Home Improvement and DIY
Check the fit, make the connections, and test for leaks
A faucet swap can stall when mounting holes or supply connections do not match. Count the sink holes and confirm compatibility before shutting off water or removing the old fixture.
Replacing a faucet is manageable when shutoff valves work, connections are reachable, and the new fixture fits. Seized hardware or tight access can make the job harder.
Count the sink or countertop holes and note whether handles are separate or part of one assembly. Compare the layout with the replacement’s installation requirements before buying.
Gather the faucet hardware, adjustable and basin wrenches, screwdriver, bucket, cloth, and flashlight. Clear and protect the cabinet, close both shutoff valves, then open the faucet to release pressure.
Disconnect both supply lines and catch leftover water. Loosen the mounting hardware from below, steady the faucet if needed, then lift it out and gently clear old gasket residue.
Follow the maker’s sequence for the gasket, faucet position, and mounting hardware. Center the fixture, align handles, tighten securely without overtightening, and connect hot and cold lines correctly.
Open shutoff valves gradually and run hot and cold water. Dry the connections first, then check beneath the faucet and around valves for drips; close the valves before correcting a leak.
A new faucet does not automatically require a new drain. If replacing it, check the kit size and sink compatibility, including an overflow opening when the sink has one.
Reuse old supply lines only when they are in good condition, connect properly, and the faucet maker permits it. Replace lines with corrosion, kinks, leaks, or damaged fittings.
Plumber’s putty is not always needed: many faucets use a supplied gasket or specified seal. Follow the model instructions, and do not add putty where it is not called for.
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